Irakli beach: the wild beach south of Obzor

Irakli is the beach people ask about after three days on Obzor's central beach, when they start wanting quiet. It lies south of the town, before Cape Emine, where the Balkan Mountains reach the sea: about two kilometres of sand mixed with fine shingle, inside a protected natural area. No umbrellas for hire, no cafés, no lifeguards. That is what makes it good, and that is what you need to know before you set off.

From Obzor you drive south along the old E87. The turning is signposted "Irakli"; from there a dirt track drops to the shore. By car it is about fifteen minutes from the centre of Obzor. There is no bus to the beach, so the options are a car, a taxi or an arranged transfer. If you go by taxi, arrange the return too: there is nowhere on the beach to hail a car, and mobile coverage is unreliable.

On foot from Obzor it is not a stroll: the road is a highway with no pavement, and the distance is a proper hike. Leave it to the car.

Long, wide and with nothing built on it. The sand is coarser than in Obzor and in places mixes with fine shingle, which you notice mostly when walking into the water: sandals or water shoes are a good idea. Behind the beach there is greenery, and shade only where the trees reach the sand; otherwise the shade is the one you brought. The northern end of Irakli is the only place in the area where nudism is informally tolerated; if that is not for you, simply stay in the middle and southern parts.

• Water, more than you think. There is nowhere to buy any.
• Shade: an umbrella or a shelter. Trees reach the sand in only a few places.
• Food. There is not a single café, and the nearest ones are in Obzor.
• Cash and a charged battery. There is no ATM and no socket.
• A rubbish bag. This is a protected area and everything you brought leaves with you.
• For children: there are no lifeguards, and the sea here is entirely your responsibility.

In the morning. In July and August, and especially at August weekends, Irakli fills up by noon, mostly near the turning where everyone comes down. Come early and you have two hours almost to yourself. The other quiet option is after five in the afternoon, when the light softens and some people have already left. Walking the full length of the beach and back takes about an hour and a half, and the quietest end is always the one furthest from the road.

Out of season Irakli is at its best and emptiest, but the track down can be muddy and the sea is cold.

A little further south along the same road is the turning for Cape Emine: the lighthouse, the ruins of St Nicholas monastery and the point where the Balkan Mountains officially end in the sea. From the turning it is about an hour and a half on foot, so carry water. Half an hour south is Nesebar. Irakli in the morning and Nesebar in the afternoon is one of the best days you can make from Obzor, and it is described under day trips.

You leave Obzor around nine, with water and food for lunch. You go down the dirt track, leave the car and walk along the beach, away from the turning, until the people thin out to nobody. Two hours of sea and sand, lunch under your own shade, one more swim. Around one in the afternoon, when the sun gets serious, you head back to Obzor for a late lunch on the alley, or carry on south to Nesebar. Four hours that are worth a whole day.

Can I bring a dog? Yes, anywhere on Irakli, but on a lead.

Are there sunbeds, a shower, a toilet? No. Nothing is built on the beach. Bring a mat, shade and patience.

Can I get there by bus? No. Only a car, a taxi or a transfer.

Can I camp? Irakli is a protected area, and the rules on staying overnight are not something we will retell from hearsay. If it matters to you, check before the trip.

Is it safe for children? The sea is as calm as anywhere on this coast, but there are no lifeguards and the bottom is not as gentle as in Obzor. With small children the central beach is the wiser choice.

How long does the whole outing take? Half a day: leave around nine, back around one.

More on both beaches, the zones of the central beach and the rules on the shore is in the Obzor beach guide.